My husband, our three young children ages 11, 8 and 4 and I just came back from a 2 ½ week vacation in France. After four days in Paris, we took the TGV train to Provence where we spent the rest of our vacation. We did not have a planned daily itinerary in Paris nor did we have one in Provence. Sounds scary, read on. (I will be glad to help and answer questions from parents planning to bring their kids to France.)
We departed Washington DC on June 18 and arrived in Paris around 9:05 am the following day after a frenzied layover in Montreal Canada. Our flight was delayed in Washington DC for two hours therefore cutting down our layover in the Montreal airport from 2 hours to a mere 15 minutes. All I remember from this fiasco was it must have been quite a spectacle with me racing and tearing through the looooong corridors of the Montreal Airport to the immigration counter and connecting gates with my two-inch heels, the stroller with my 4 year old daughter, trailing behind my sprinting husband and two sons each with a 22 inch carry-on luggage. We made it to the plane with 2 minutes to spare to stow our luggage and catch our breath.
After an overnight flight we finally landed in Paris! We were craning our necks looking through the airplane windows because we couldn’t wait to see France. We got off the plane, went through immigration and proceeded to claim our checked luggage which was delayed because of the fiasco in Montreal. I did not complain because I was just too excited and happy to be in Paris and besides the luggage was delivered to our hotel the following day. We exited out of the airport around 11 am after a quick stop to the change counter where we exchanged dollars to Euros for our cab fare. I couldn’t believe the exchange rate; 1 euro = $1.72! We did not have time to buy Euros in the US but we were able to withdraw funds for the rest of our trip from our Bank of America account thru France’s Bank Paribas (best rates, I think around $1.57). Our cab fare to Paris from the airport was about 50 Euros which was a good deal considering there were 5 of us and 3 luggages. The trip which took about 40 minutes took us through Rue de Rivoli after the motorway which was not a pretty drive. No matter, I knew the beautiful Paris we read and knew about was out there. We arrived at Hotel Britannique near Hotel de Ville in the right bank. While we waited to check in, we decided to have lunch. I asked the front desk clerk if she can recommend a good restaurant. She asked me what kind of food we would like and I told her ‘authentic French food’ which I thought at that time was a sensible remark. Who makes a sensible statement after an overnight flight with three children and without sleep? She directed me to Café Zimmer’s across the street. We sat outside and ordered 2 Cocas (which is what they call Coke), a beer, an ice cream sundae (8 euros), a salad for me and a croquet monsieur which the kids shared. All came to 61 euros. When you are euphoric because it is your first time in Paris reason abandons you.
We finally checked in our hotel. We had two rooms which were not adjacent but across each other. One room had a small terrace and was facing the street and the other was bigger and can accommodate three people and was facing the back of the hotel. Everyone finally had the chance to take a nap while I on the other hand was too excited to sleep. After two hours we were all ready to explore Paris. We went out around 5:30 pm and it was chilly! We walked at a leisurely pace along Rue de Rivoli still taking in all the sights and sounds of Paris even if we were just passing by modern stores and a McDonalds but there were enough side streets with the typical Paris neighborhood to sate our interest. We walked about two blocks and there right in front of us was the imposing western side of the Louvre Museum. What a sight! You see pictures of the Louvre in movies but you cannot really comprehend the massive size until you are in front of it. We went around the corner and entered through the Cour Carree but this was after we got ice cream at a Movenprick stall across the Louvre. This is the first of the many, many ice cream stops we will be making in France. (Note when bringing kids: Have a separate budget for ice cream and cold drinks). We soaked in all the wonderful architecture and sculpture in the Cour Carree square unaware that right next to it is a more impressive square. We took pictures like it was the only site we’ll ever visit. We gazed with awe at the architecture and ogled at the statues; we were unabashedly, tourists. We walked through the arched entryway towards the glass pyramid and for a first timer, what a site! Beautiful massive modern structure surrounded by the renaissance buildings. We sat around the pools and rested. (Note when bringing your kids: You will be sitting and resting a lot no matter how excited you are to go and explore). We had not planned on entering the museum that day but when I went inside to get information for museum passes or just to see what the best option is for a family of five. I found out that Wednesdays after 6 pm are reduced rates (yay!) I got two tickets at 6 euros each and all three kids were free. We bee lined towards the Sully Wing which is where the Mona Lisa is. (Note: When bringing kids, you will only get to see major exhibitions in a Museum forget about seeing all you want to see). Seeing the Mona Lisa for the first time was my moment and my husband’s. My two boys were mildly curious but not over excited as we were. It was not crowded at all and I kept thinking to myself what a magical day it has been so far. We were able to get up close but not touching close as it is encased in glass and the closest you can get is about 5 feet away. After viewing the Mona Lisa, we went to the temporary exhibition halls where my husband was taken more by the Caravaggio paintings than the Mona Lisa. My husband and I resigned – no actually look forward - to the fact that we have to go back in the future just the two of us to Paris and the Louvre. While we were resting on one of the circular sofas in the center of the hallway, an older American lady overhearing my attempt to give my eight-year old son a short history in art said to my son “You know, I have waited 57 years for this day, enjoy what you are seeing”. This I hope had the same humbling effect on my son as it had on me. After a couple of hours, we went out of the museum toward the Tuileries Gardens where my kids ran around with abandon; free at last of the museum! It was about 8:30 pm and there was still light. Again we sat and rested around the pools in the Tuileries Gardens. We watched local children feed the ducks at one pool. I was forced to sit down and relax which I would have never done if it was just my husband and me. (Note to parents bringing kids: Having your kids with you while traveling will teach you to slow down; to look around you; to notice people around you and to feel the moment.)
At the end of Tuileries Gardens, we exited and walked towards the Concorde metro because we cannot possibly walk to the Eiffel Tower which we compulsively decided to see next. The sun was just setting then and by the time we ascended from the Ecole Militaire metro, it was dark. We couldn’t see the Eiffel yet and got quite confused as to what direction to take. After circling the intersection twice, we decided to follow where the festive sounds were coming from and also followed a couple of tourist (yes, we can tell our fellow tourists). We walked about 2 blocks and saw the lighted phenomenon. This image as familiar to me as the White House, the San Francisco Bridge or the Tower of London ever since I was a little girl because I see it everywhere in magazines, TV, movies and photographs is here in front of me; large, looming beautiful Eiffel Tower! It was in this moment that my eight year old boy blurted out “Mommy, is this the real Eiffel Tower?” which elicited quite a lot of laughter from the tourists around us. I thought why on earth would my son ask this question? Of course I thought, my son have seen this same structure in smaller forms in the many theme parks we have visited in the US (I can’t or don’t care to recall exactly what the theme parks are) and every time we saw a copy of a famous monument, we always said, “This is not the real thing; the real thing is in …etc”. There is not a better time to see the Eiffel tower but at night with all its glorious lights and with all the people, locals and tourist alike sitting on the grass drinking wine. It was a magical moment for all of us. I decided a few months back not to book a dinner at Altitude 95 because of the mixed reviews and mostly for the price. It was going to be about 400 euros for the five of us. I thought we did not need to spend 400 Euros to experience this magical moment. I was however contemplating on a restaurant I have heard and read about in the many blogs I have visited while planning our trip. It was the L’ Ami Jean at Rue Malar in the 7th arrondissement. Right there out of the blue, we all decided it was worth the walk. We did not have a reservation but we decided that it was worth the walk and besides we can always choose another café or bistro on the way. This is the laissez-faire attitude we decided to take in Paris. At this time the magic of Paris has also touched my kids that no complaint or whine was heard while we walked all 5 blocks to Rue Malar. (Note to parents bringing kids: Stroller, Stroller, Stroller). By the way navigation was made easier for us because we used the Knopf Mapguides Paris. We finally found L’ Ami Jean, a small (really small) neighborhood restaurant. It was packed but I went ahead and asked for a table of five. The lady said it would take about 10 minutes! Wow what a lucky break. Some diners were just finishing their dinner so we really came in a good time. We finally sat down for dinner around 11:30 pm which is about 7:30 pm in the U.S. What perfect timing and the kids were starving! Speaking little French and with the aid of my 11 year old boy who is studying French in school we managed to order the best meal of our lives. I did not have the energy nor the desire to write down the French names of the dishes we had but I took pictures. I had the duck (canard) breast which was the best duck I have eaten; my husband had the Basque beef which was cooked for 7 hours; my kids shared a large steak with vegetables topped with abundant l’moelle (marrow) served in a copper pot. I ate most of the l’moelle and it was heaven! To those planning on eating here – DO NOT MISS THE RICE PUDDING. I think it was called Basque gateau (not sure) but it was the best rice pudding on this earth. I guarantee. Many of the diners were well dressed locals and while we were waiting to be seated older gentlemen and ladies on their way out would stop and smile at my children (Note to parents bringing kids: Bring well-behaved children). A table with a group of locals (yes we can tell locals from tourists), were looking at us probably curious as to why we were still up and about with our kids late at night and waiting for a table for dinner. One gentleman and a lady in that group were talking or debating while looking at my son in a friendly way and I am guessing they cannot place our country of origin. Finally the gentleman, after looking at my son’s plaid Abercrombie shorts said, “Ah American!”
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What a great report! Your children are very lucky to have had parents who introduced them to Paris at a young age, and gave them the opportunity to discover and love it. Thanks for posting this, I can see why the magic worked for you.
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Thank you Berkeley travelers for your kinds words. I was a little worried the report was too long.
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loved your report. The first time we went to Paris, our kids were a similar age to yours and we had such a wonderful holiday. Your report brought back lots of happy memories. Our favourite spot was the Jardin du Luxembourg.
Looking forward to reading more!!!
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Thanks VEROPALO. Our kids favorite spot is also the Jardin du Luxembourg. They played there all afternoon during one of our days in Paris. They met and played with other children. It was so wonderful for them. They wanted to go back but we did not have time and I wanted them so see the Cite des Enfants at the Cite des Sciences. They loved the interactive museum there. Thanks for your kind words.
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What a great first day! My sister %26amp; I are arriving early in the morning too. I%26#39;m trying to figure out what to do on our first day- we want to take it easy, but not just sit around. Your day of a museum visit and a Garden visit and then dinner sounds perfect.
Can%26#39;t wait to read more!
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What a great trip report. We shall be visiting Paris in two months time and like you will be accompanied by an 11 and an 8 year old. We didn%26#39;t have time for the third LOL. I appreciated your notes to parents bringing kids.
Looking forward to the rest of the report.
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Thank you for your report , waiting to read your next instalments.
A trip report never too long to me :D
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........what a wonderful story - you should write books! We don%26#39;t even have children, but we are travelling to Paris in September and I was inspired by your report. Tell your children how lucky they are to have such great parents.
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Coleen126 --
I always do a recon in the neighbourhood around my hotel. I need to identify the brasserie with the best menu, the little store with cheese and yogurt to supplement the continental breakfast, the best patisserie, the best place to get a bottle of wine for the cocktail hour, and the shop that has good cut flowers. I like always to have fresh flowers, even in a hotel room. After you know where all the basics of life can be found, have a nap for an hour or so, and then go out and absorb Paris.
Fortune 5 -
Congratulations!! Throughout your diary, I was struck by the fact that your children must be remarkably well behaved and polite. You felt compelled only to sit and rest and allow them to run around in a garden - no nagging, no being frazzled, not one difficult thing.
When Parisians in a restaurant look at a child with a smile, they have bestowed a welcome and approval - a ringing endorsement. Good for you.
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An excellent trip report. Hope the rest of your holiday went as well.
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